You may have heard the term depth of field (DoF), but what actually is it, and why does it matter for photographers?

Regardless of your skill level or the type of camera you possess, comprehending depth of field is essential to expanding your photographic horizons. It applies to every aspect of photography, from macro close-ups to sweeping panoramas, and it holds the potential to set you free creatively so you can capture stunningly artistic images.

In this article, I share all of the DoF fundamentals – along with some advanced tips and tricks – including:

• A simple definition of depth of field
• Why it really matters in photography (and why it’s a concept you must understand)
• The factors affecting DoF in your photos
• How to adjust the DoF for insanely artistic results
• Plenty of depth of field examples

Ready to master this powerful concept and level up your shots? Let’s dive right in.

What is depth of field in photography?

The depth of field is the zone within a photo that appears acceptably sharp and in focus.

In every picture, there is a point of focus – the spot where you actually focus your lens. But there is also an area both in front of and behind your point of focus that also appears sharp, and that area corresponds to the depth of field.

The size of this zone of sharpness will vary from photo to photo depending on different factors, such as your lens’s aperture setting and distance to the subject. So by adjusting your camera settings and your composition, you can determine the amount of your image that turns out sharp and the amount that ends up blurry.

Deep vs shallow depth of field: What’s the difference?

Images that have a very large zone of acceptable sharpness are said to have a deep depth of field. Deep DoF photos tend to be sharp from front to back; it’s a popular look in landscape photography, where you often want to show every little detail from the scene.

This next photo is an example of a deep DoF shot. Notice how the areas close to the lens and the areas off in the distance look reasonably sharp.

On the other hand, some images have very small zones of focus, which is known as shallow depth of field. A shallow DoF photo is generally immediately recognizable because the subject will look tack-sharp while the background is rendered as a smooth, creamy blur:

This effect is especially popular in portraiture; photographers use it to draw attention to their subject while preventing background distractions. But you’ll also see shallow DoF macro photography, street photography, photojournalism, and more.

Deep depth of field examples

Here are a few solid examples of photos featuring a deep DoF. As you can see, the scenes are consistently sharp from the nearest foreground element to the most distant background element. Note the way that the crisp details help draw you into the frame:

Shallow depth of field examples

Now let’s take a look at a few shallow depth of field examples. Pay careful attention to the way the shallow DoF helps emphasize the main subject in each shot:

Why is DoF important?

The zone of sharpness is a key artistic component of each photo. Whether your image has a shallow DoF or a deep DoF can make a huge difference to how the shot is perceived and can often make or break the composition.

For instance, if you’re photographing a portrait subject with a distracting background, failure to produce a shallow depth of field will often result in a very snapshot-esque, mediocre photo. The subject won’t stand out, and the image’s impact will be lost.

On the other hand, if you’re photographing a landscape with a beautiful foreground, a stunning midground, and a jaw-dropping background, failure to use a deep depth of field will prevent the viewer from appreciating the entire scene.

So at the end of the day, depth of field matters. Learn to control it, and your photos will immediately improve.

Factors affecting DoF

There are three main factors that determine the depth of field in a photo. They are:

1. The lens’s aperture setting (f-stop)
2. The distance between your lens and your subject
3. The focal length of the lens

By understanding these variables and how they work, you can learn to produce a deep or shallow depth of field at will.

1. Aperture (f-stop)

Aperture refers to a hole in your lens through which light enters the camera. The larger the hole, the shallower the depth of field.

You may be familiar with f-stop values, which look like this: f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, etc. The smallest f-numbers correspond to the widest apertures and therefore the shallowest DoFs. And the larger f-numbers correspond to the narrowest apertures and therefore the deepest DoFs.

In other words:

Large aperture = Small f-number = Shallow (small) DoF
Small aperture = Large f-number = Deep (large) DoF

Adjusting the aperture (f-stop) of your lens is the simplest way to control your depth of field while setting up your shot.

So if you’re photographing a landscape and you want a deep depth of field, just set your aperture to f/11 or so, and you’ll generally get foreground-to-background sharpness. If you’re photographing a portrait and you want a shallow depth of field, set your aperture to f/2.8 and you’ll often get a beautiful blurred background.

2. Distance between your lens and your subject

The closer your subject is to the camera, the shallower your depth of field becomes.

(Note that I’m using the terms “subject” and “point of focus” interchangeably here – if you accidentally focus behind your subject, then the DoF will be completely different.)

So if you get up close and personal when photographing a flower, the depth of field will shrink. And if you take ten steps backward while still focusing your lens on that flower, the depth of field will increase.

Of course, getting closer or farther from your subject isn’t always feasible, plus it’ll change the size of your subject within the frame, so its usefulness can be limited.

3. Focal length

The longer your focal length, the shallower the depth of field.

So if your subject is 33 feet (10 meters) away and your aperture is set to f/4, a focal length of 50mm will give you a depth of field range from around 22-63 feet (6.7-19.2 meters) for a total DoF of 41 feet (12.5 meters).

But if you zoom into 100mm while standing in the same spot, still using an aperture of f/4, the depth of field changes to about 29.5-37.5 feet (9-11.4 meters) for a total DoF of 8 feet (2.4 meters).

If all that sounds a bit technical, feel free to skip over the details. The key concept to understand here is that longer lenses produce shallow depth of field effects, whereas shorter lenses produce deep depth of field effects (assuming that the aperture and the distance from the subject remain the same).

Putting it all together

Aperture, distance to your subject, and focal length together determine your depth of field.

In other words, these three factors can combine to produce a very extreme depth of field effect, or they can cancel each other out.

For instance, if you shoot at f/2.8 and you get close to your subject and you use a telephoto lens, you’ll achieve an ultra-shallow depth of field. But if you get close to your subject while using a wide-angle lens, the two factors will generally cancel out, resulting in a medium depth of field.

How to work with depth of field: a step-by-step approach

While knowing the theory is great, it’s important to also understand how to apply depth of field when out shooting. Here’s my quick step-by-step approach to achieving the precise DoF effect you’re after:

Step 1: Set your camera to Aperture Priority or Manual mode

Most cameras only offer two modes where you can easily control the aperture and therefore the depth of field: Aperture Priority mode and Manual mode.

So the first order of business is to switch your camera Mode dial over to one of these options.

If you’re a beginner, Aperture Priority mode is probably the better pick – it’ll let you input the aperture, while your camera determines the best shutter speed for a good exposure. If you’re more advanced, Manual mode will let you select the aperture and shutter speed independently for greater creative control.

Step 2: Determine whether you want a deep or narrow depth of field

Carefully observe your scene. Ask yourself: Do I want to blur out the background? Or do I want to keep the entire shot sharp?

Generally speaking, if your background is distracting, it’s best to use a shallow depth of field. But if the background adds to the scene – for instance, it contains beautiful clouds and a stunning mountain range, or it contributes valuable context – then use a deep depth of field.

If you’re aiming for a shallow depth of field look, you generally don’t need to calculate the depth of field precisely. On the other hand, if you want to keep the entire shot sharp, you may want to calculate the hyperfocal distance (see the section on hyperfocal distance below) to determine the best point of focus.

Step 3: Adjust your aperture, distance to the subject, and focal length

Now that you know the depth of field effect you’re after, it’s time to make the relevant changes to your composition and/or camera settings.

If your goal is a shallow depth of field effect, use a longer lens (if possible) and set it to its widest possible aperture. Then get as close as you can to your subject – without ruining your composition – and take your shot.

If your goal is to achieve a deep depth of field effect, use a wide-angle lens (if possible) and get as far back from your subject as you can without sacrificing the composition. Then dial in a narrow aperture – often f/8 or beyond is ideal, though see the next section on hyperfocal distance if you’re not sure what’s best – focus about a third of the way into the scene, and take your shot.

(Quick tip: When you look through your camera’s viewfinder, you’re generally seeing a preview of the image at your lens’s widest aperture. But many cameras offer a depth of field preview button; press this, and you can preview the actual depth of field in real-time before hitting the shutter button. Check your manual to see if it’s an option on your camera!)

Step 4: Check to make sure you got the depth of field right

After you’ve taken an image, especially when you’re just starting out, I highly recommend you check your camera’s LCD to ensure you’ve nailed the depth of field.

Take a quick look at the image in playback mode. If your goal is to keep the entire shot sharp, magnify the photo to check the nearest foreground object and the most distant background object, just to be sure everything looks good.

If you notice an error, you can always reshoot before the light changes.

Hyperfocal distance: how to get everything in focus

The hyperfocal distance is a special point of focus in your scene. It’s the distance for a given aperture and focal length that allows you to maximize the depth of field.

Specifically, when you focus at the hyperfocal distance, your depth of field will extend from half your point of focus all the way to infinity.

As you can imagine, this is useful when you want to keep the entire scene sharp; you just dial in your preferred aperture, then set your point of focus at the hyperfocal distance.

But how do you determine the hyperfocal distance when out in the field? You have a few options. First, you can use a hyperfocal distance calculator like the one offered by PhotoPills, which will let you dial in your focal length and your selected aperture, then spit out the hyperfocal distance.

Alternatively, you can focus about a third of the way into the scene, which is a good rule of thumb and will generally offer solid results, assuming you’ve used a relatively narrow aperture (f/8 or beyond is good) and a wide-angle lens.

Doing precise DoF calculations: charts, calculators, and apps

Most photographers don’t need to gauge depth of field exactly while out shooting, so doing quick estimates or using easy rules of thumb works fine, especially if you check your LCD afterward.

But you may find yourself in a situation where DoF matters a great deal – for instance, if you’re a landscape photographer dealing with a very deep scene, you’re a macro photographer shooting at extreme magnifications, or you’re a product photographer and you don’t have the opportunity to reshoot if you mess up.

In such cases, I’d recommend turning to some type of DoF “helper.” You have a few options:

1. Depth of field charts. These show you DoF ranges across different apertures and lens-to-subject distances. You can print them off and laminate them if you want a physical copy, but you’ll need a different chart for each lens focal length, which can get frustrating if you’re using multiple primes or even a single zoom.
2. Depth of field calculators. These let you input your focal length, your distance to the subject, and your aperture, then they’ll give you your DoF range. They’re very flexible, but you’ll need to keep one handy on your phone. They’re also less helpful than charts (because a chart lets you see how your depth of field changes as you make small adjustments to aperture and subject distance).
3. Depth of field apps. There are many free and paid DoF apps, most of which offer a combination of the above two DoF helpers. For instance, PhotoPills offers both a calculator and a chart (plus, the chart is adjustable – you can dial in your focal length and it’ll immediately recalculate your DoF ranges). And PhotoPills includes other helpful photography aids, such as sunrise/sunset times and directions, hyperfocal distance charts and calculators, and more. Of course, you need to carry your phone with you at all times, but this is still the preferred solution of most landscape photographers.

Ultimately, the DoF aid you choose depends on your preferences – so feel free to try each option out and see which one you like best!

When to use a shallow depth of field

A shallow depth of field will make your subject stand out from the background. Here are a few situations when a shallow DoF often makes sense:

• In portrait photography when you want to emphasize your subject’s features
• In wildlife photography when you want the animal to stand out
• In sports photography when you want to bring attention to the athlete
• In macro photography when you want to focus the viewer on a flower, plant, or insect
• In event and street photography when you want to isolate an individual in a chaotic environment

Note that using a wide aperture will also increase the amount of light hitting your sensor, which will in turn let you boost the shutter speed. This is a major benefit if you’re shooting in low light or you need ultra-fast shutter speeds to freeze the action.

When to use a deep depth of field

A deep DoF provides context, highlights small details, makes scenes appear more lifelike, and – when combined with certain composition techniques – increases depth. Here are some situations when a deep depth of field is best:

• In landscape photography when you want to lead the viewer from foreground to midground to background, or you want to emphasize both interesting foreground features and stunning background features
• In macro photography when you’re working at high magnifications, but you want to keep your entire main subject sharp
• In street photography when you want to emphasize the busyness and chaos of a city
• In architectural photography when you want to show off an entire building
• In real estate photography when you want to highlight an entire interior

5 tips for the best DoF results

In this section, I share a few techniques to help you really take advantage of image DoF. Some of the advice is more advanced, but if you’re looking to give your photos a boost, it can make a big difference.

1. Feel free to do depth of field “bracketing”

When it comes to capturing the perfect shot, depth of field plays a crucial role in determining the overall look and feel of your images. However, there are instances where you might find yourself torn between using a shallow or deep DoF, and that’s where the technique of DoF “bracketing” comes into play.

The idea is to test out different aperture settings and evaluate the results afterward. Start by framing up your composition, then vary the aperture settings to capture shots with different DoF effects.

That way, you can evaluate the shots afterward and decide which works best. It’s also a great learning experience that’ll help you understand how to better apply depth of field in the future!

By the way, it’s important to recognize that there isn’t always a single “best” DoF for a particular scene. Some subjects look great no matter how you shoot them! So if you can’t decide which version you prefer, you don’t need to stress; perhaps all of your files look great.

2. Spend time analyzing the depth of field in your favorite photos

Professional photographers are DoF masters, and you can learn a lot from their approach. Therefore, to elevate your own skills, I encourage you to spend time simply looking at the work of others.

Begin by carefully selecting a handful of photographers whose work resonates with you. Immerse yourself in their portfolios, taking the time to truly absorb each shot. Pay especially close attention to their deliberate DoF choices. Observe where the zone of sharpness starts and ends. Ask yourself: How does the photographer’s use of depth of field improve the photo? What effect does it have? How would changing the DoF change the shot?

As you analyze these images, try to discern the subtle nuances of depth of field. Notice how a shallow DoF can isolate a subject from its surroundings, drawing attention and creating a sense of intimacy. Observe how a deep DoF can reveal intricate details throughout the frame, allowing the viewer to explore every corner of the scene.

And then try to apply the knowledge you gained to your own shots!

3. If you can’t get the depth of field you need, try focus stacking

Sometimes, despite your best efforts, capturing the entire subject or scene in sharp focus isn’t possible. This is a common problem when photographing landscapes with prominent foreground elements positioned close to the lens, or when dealing with high-magnification shots of products or still-life subjects.

Fortunately, there is a solution that can help you achieve your desired depth of field: focus stacking.

Focus stacking is a technique that involves capturing a series of shots, each with a slightly different point of focus, and blending them together in post-processing. That way, you can extend the zone of sharpness throughout the image and overcome any DoF limitations. (Note that some editing software, such as Lightroom, doesn’t offer stacking capabilities, but other programs – such as Photoshop – provide the tools needed to quickly align and merge your stacked files.)

When focusing stacking, it’s crucial to maintain compositional consistency across all shots. Some photographers do get solid results from handholding, but I highly recommend using a sturdy tripod, at least at first. Over time, you can start experimenting with alternative approaches.

4. Make sure your shallow DoF photos have an anchor point

Shallow depth of field can result in breathtakingly artistic photographs. However, you shouldn’t just widen your aperture and shoot with abandon; instead, you need to consider your compositions carefully – otherwise, the viewer will get overwhelmed by the blur and will start to feel lost.

In particular, I recommend including an anchor point in each shot.

An anchor serves as a focal point within the frame; it should be a clear, solid area that is sharp and in perfect focus. It could be a glistening droplet delicately perched on a flower petal, the piercing gaze of a subject’s eyes in a portrait, or even a meticulously captured logo in a product photograph. The specifics aren’t important – what matters is that it provides a sort of island for the viewer to lock on amid the background blur.

By the way, if you’re struggling to create photos with anchor points, it could be a sign that the lens’s aperture is a little too wide. Try subtly narrowing the aperture and see if the photos improve!

5. Work on your manual focusing skills

When it comes to mastering the art of depth of field, manual focus skills can make a huge difference. You see, by focusing manually, you can gain precise control over your DoF window (whether shallow or deep).

Embracing manual focus may seem difficult at first, but it really is a skill worth acquiring. In shallow depth of field photography, manual focus allows you to set the sharpness window exactly where you want it, ensuring critical focus on specific elements within your frame. (Imagine delicately highlighting the intricate details of a flower petal with pinpoint accuracy.)

And in deep DoF photography, you can use manual focus to ensure your lens is focusing at the hyperfocal distance, which will in turn ensure that both the foreground and background elements are sufficiently sharp.

Don’t worry if manual focus is uncharted territory for you. It’s easier than you might think, so even if you’re intimidated, take the time to test it out and see how you feel. Also, bear in mind that you won’t need to use it all the time – it’s just a good tool to have in your back pocket for those times you’re struggling to get the desired results through autofocusing.

Depth of field: final words

And there you have it! Now that we’ve delved into the captivating world of depth of field, you’re ready to unleash your creative potential and take your photography to new heights.

Remember, DoF isn’t just some technical mumbo-jumbo reserved for the pros – it’s a fundamental concept that anyone with a camera can use. Whether you’re capturing intimate portraits, vibrant street scenes, or breathtaking landscapes, mastery of depth of field can help transform your shots from snapshots into artistic masterpieces.

So grab your camera and enjoy some photography. Experiment with different aperture settings, play with focal points, and see what you can create. Embrace the power of DoF to draw attention, evoke emotions, and tell compelling stories.

Now over to you:

What questions do you have about depth of field? What DoF do you most often use in your photos? After reading this article, do you plan to change your approach? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

Depth of field FAQ

The post Depth of Field: The Essential Guide (+ Tips) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Bruce Wunderlich.

Have you ever found yourself gazing at the night sky, wishing you could capture the ethereal beauty of the moon? You’re not alone – Earth’s closest celestial orb has inspired poets, artists, and dreamers for centuries. Photographing the moon, however, presents a unique set of challenges that can leave even experienced photographers frustrated.

Fortunately, despite its difficulties, there are several proven approaches for creating breathtaking moon landscape photography. And in this article, I share my favorites, from using HDR imaging and long-exposure techniques to adding close-up foreground objects to produce compelling compositions.

Ready to unravel the secrets of lunar landscape shots? Let’s dive right in!

1. Pay attention to the weather and moon phase

When it comes to capturing stunning moon landscape images, proper planning is key. It may be tempting to grab your camera and head out on any given night, but if you want to elevate your shots, taking the time to consider the weather and moon phase is essential. After all, the conditions surrounding the moon can significantly impact the outcome of your photographs.

Before embarking on your moon photography adventure, be sure to check the weather forecast. Cloudy skies may obstruct the moon and hinder your chances of capturing a visually pleasing image. On the other hand, while clear nights are ideal, if the forecast calls for clouds, you shouldn’t necessarily throw in the towel. Strategically placed clouds can add a touch of drama and intrigue to your compositions, though patience is crucial here; you’ll generally need to wait until the moon is either partially or fully uncovered for a good result.

Additionally, understanding the moon phase schedule is vital. Full moons often provide the best opportunities, as they showcase the moon in all its luminous glory. But don’t underestimate the beauty of crescent moons. These delicate lunar phases offer unique artistic possibilities, allowing you to capture a sliver of moonlight above a breathtaking landscape.

2. Shoot during the blue hour

The blue hour, that enchanting period just before sunrise and after sunset, holds a magical quality that can elevate your moon landscape photography to new heights. As the sun dips below the horizon, the sky transforms into a canvas painted with hues of blue, purple, and pink, which can look amazing when combined with a warm, bright moon.

The blue hour offers a host of advantages for capturing stunning moon landscape photos. Firstly, the soft, diffused light will bathe the scene, enhancing the ethereal atmosphere and adding a touch of enchantment.

Photographing during the blue hour also allows you to strike a delicate balance between capturing the moon and incorporating the landscape’s foreground elements. The ambient light during this time often provides just enough illumination to highlight the intricate details of the landscape without requiring an ultra-long exposure.

To make the most of the blue hour, it is essential to plan your shoot meticulously. Determine the precise time of sunrise or sunset in your location and arrive early to set up your equipment and compose your shots. Experiment with different compositions, taking advantage of the soft pastel tones and the interplay between the moon and the sky.

3. Use good long-exposure technique

As the moon is only visible during the dimmest parts of the day, you’ll need to use a lengthy shutter speed to ensure the image is sufficiently bright. Therefore, to capture sharp moon landscapes, you’ll need to hone your long-exposure skills.

First and foremost, investing in a sturdy tripod is essential. This will provide the necessary stability to keep your camera steady throughout the long exposure. To minimize any potential camera shake, consider using a remote shutter release or the two-second timer on your camera.

Vibrations caused by the camera’s mirror and shutter can also affect the overall sharpness. If you’re shooting with a DSLR, utilizing mirror lock-up mode or Live View mode can mitigate these vibrations. And no matter your camera type, activating the electronic shutter or electronic front-curtain shutter is generally a good idea.

It’s crucial to remain aware of the weather. Windy conditions can introduce unwanted camera shake, so be patient and wait for moments of relative calm to capture your shots. If you can, take multiple shots as a backup in case any vibrations affect your image quality.

Finally, while you’ll need to dial in a longer shutter speed for well-exposed shots, make sure it isn’t too long. The spinning of the earth will cause the moon to move through the sky, and if you’re not careful, this will lead to blur.

4. Include foreground interest for compelling compositions

When it comes to capturing stunning moon landscape shots, the moon itself is undeniably captivating. However, if you truly want to create images that leave a lasting impact, it’s crucial to carefully select a complementary foreground that enhances the overall composition.

By incorporating both near foreground elements and more distant elements, such as mountains, trees, or patterns in the sand, you add depth and visual interest to your photograph. These elements provide a sense of scale and context, allowing the viewer to immerse themselves in the scene.

When choosing your foreground, look for elements that harmonize with the moon’s ethereal presence. Consider how the moon interacts with these elements and how they interact with each other within the frame. This interplay can create a visual narrative that draws the viewer’s eye and invites them to explore the entire composition.

Remember, the key to a compelling composition lies in striking a balance between the moon and the foreground. Experiment with different angles and perspectives to find the perfect arrangement that brings harmony to the elements within your frame. Be patient and willing to explore different locations and viewpoints; even minor compositional changes can drastically transform the impact of your moon landscape photographs.

5. Try wide-angle and telephoto lenses

While wide-angle lenses are often favored by landscape photographers, don’t overlook the creative possibilities offered by telephoto lenses. Let’s explore how both lens types can take your moon photography to new heights.

Wide-angle lenses are great for capturing expansive scenes, allowing you to incorporate the vastness of the landscape into your composition. By carefully framing your shot to include a balance of near and distant elements, you can create a sense of depth and draw the viewer into the photo.

However, don’t limit yourself to wide-angle lenses. Experimenting with telephoto lenses can yield unique and striking results. By zooming in on a single foreground element, such as a majestic tree or a solitary cactus, while placing the moon in the background, you can create a captivating shot!

Remember, each lens offers its own creative possibilities. By exploring the potential of both wide-angle and telephoto lenses, you can expand your artistic repertoire and capture moon landscapes that leave a lasting impression.

6. Use HDR techniques for the best exposures

When it comes to moon landscape photography, achieving well-exposed images can be a daunting task. The stark contrast between the dark foreground and the brilliantly lit moon presents a challenge for your camera’s limited dynamic range. That’s where high dynamic range (HDR) techniques come to the rescue, enabling you to capture the full tonal range of your scene and create breathtaking results.

To employ HDR imaging effectively, set your camera to Manual mode and carefully select the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO settings that will ensure a well-exposed foreground. Take a shot, then – without altering your framing, the aperture, or the ISO – adjust the shutter speed to ensure a well-exposed moon, disregarding the foreground below it.

Once you’ve captured the necessary shots, bring them into post-processing software like Lightroom. Blend the images together, merging the properly exposed foreground with the detailed moon!

Note: If you don’t want to try HDR photography and you’re faced with a bright moon above a dark landscape, you do have another option: you can embrace the blown-out look! Try exposing for the landscape and letting the moon go white. The results can be hit or miss, but when the effect works, it looks amazing.

7. Focus stack to keep the entire shot sharp

When doing moon landscape photography, you may encounter situations where maintaining sharpness throughout the entire frame becomes a challenge. This issue commonly arises when employing a telephoto lens, shooting at wide apertures, or incorporating foreground elements in close proximity to the lens. Fortunately, there’s a neat solution, known as focus stacking.

Focus stacking involves capturing multiple images with different points of focus and blending them together during post-processing. By doing so, you can achieve an image that combines a sharp moon and a sharp foreground landscape.

Programs like Photoshop allow you to easily focus-stack your files. However, it’s worth noting that certain editing programs, including more basic ones like Lightroom, don’t offer dedicated focus-stacking capabilities.

Note: Focus stacking can be combined with other techniques, such as HDR blending. This intricate process involves capturing multiple bracketed shots, focusing on the landscape for some and on the moon for others. You then blend together all the images in your preferred post-processing software!

Moon landscape photography: final words

Moon landscape photography is a captivating adventure that’s guaranteed to push the boundaries of your skills and imagination. Remember, shooting the moon takes time and practice. Don’t get discouraged if your first attempts don’t turn out as expected. Keep experimenting and learning from your mistakes. Pretty soon, you’ll end up with some great images.

As you venture into the world of moon landscape photography, always keep an eye on the weather and moon phase forecasts. And don’t forget to include interesting foreground elements to complement the lunar spectacle.

So grab your camera, get out there, and chase the moonlight!

Now over to you:

Do you have any moon landscape photo tips that we missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 7 Tips for Beautiful Moon Landscape Photography appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Anne McKinnell.

Looking to get the most out of your high-ISO photos? Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise is a brand-new feature that uses the capabilities of artificial intelligence to reduce noise and grain while simultaneously keeping details intact. And it’s all through a simple and straightforward interface that’s easy enough for beginners to handle but powerful enough for professionals.

In this article, I offer a deep dive into Lightroom’s most effective noise-reduction tool to date, and I offer my thoughts on its benefits and drawbacks. While there are a few caveats to bear in mind, it’s certainly worth trying and could easily become a central component of your post-production workflow.

Let’s dive right in.

What is Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise tool?

Longtime Lightroom users might be feeling a bit of déjà vu right about now; after all, hasn’t the program had the ability to remove noise from high-ISO images for years? And it’s true: Tucked away in the Details pane of the Develop panel, a half-dozen sliders let you take manual control over your noise reduction using options like Luminance, Color, Detail, Contrast, and Smoothness.

But though it’s possible to get decent results with these sliders – with enough practice and a healthy dose of patience – they take a fair amount of time to master, and they certainly don’t offer a streamlined workflow. Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise, on the other hand, gives you great results by doing most of the heavy lifting for you – all while adding some benefits you can’t get with the program’s traditional tools.

Standard noise-reduction techniques smooth out the specks and grain associated with high-ISO files at the cost of fine detail. Textures lose their crispness, intricate color gradations become muddy, and skin takes on an artificially smooth appearance. By adding the power of artificial intelligence, Lightroom is able to reduce noise artifacts while preserving details that would be lost using simple slider manipulations.

Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise tool: How it works and ease of use

The best part of Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise feature is how simple it is to use. All you have to do is navigate to the Detail panel in the Develop interface and click the Denoise button:

Lightroom then displays the Enhance Preview dialog box with the Denoise option selected:

You can use a slider to adjust the intensity of the AI-powered Denoise operation, or you can set a value manually. Regardless, you can use the preview window on the left to see what the noise-reduced result will look like. You can also click the preview window to see a before-and-after view of the original and Enhanced images.

Then, when you’re ready to proceed, you should then click Enhance in the bottom right-hand corner of the window.

Note: You can check the Create Stack option to make the final image thumbnail appear on top of the original in Lightroom, but I recommend leaving it unchecked so you can see thumbnails for the original and the Enhanced images side by side.

In keeping with Lightroom’s non-destructive methods, the original file remains completely untouched and intact. Lightroom creates an entirely new DNG file with the Denoise operation applied, and you are free to share that file, edit it in Photoshop or another program, or remove it from Lightroom if you don’t like the results.

Now, there are a few caveats to the process that might affect how and when you choose to use it. First, Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise tool only works on RAW images shot with Bayer or X-Trans image sensors. This covers most cameras from major manufacturers, but if you shoot with something a bit less popular, you might want to check on Adobe’s website to see if your model is supported.

Additionally, the Denoise operation can only be performed on one image at a time, and it takes anywhere from several seconds to a few minutes to complete. That makes it impractical for photographers who have dozens or hundreds of high-ISO shots to process, and while it’s far from a dealbreaker, it is something to keep in mind.

Finally, each DNG file created with Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise operation will be four to five times as large as its original unaltered counterpart. While this is fairly inconsequential for photographers who don’t use the tool very often, shooters who regularly apply it to their images will quickly find themselves running low on storage space. Again, this isn’t a reason not to use AI-powered Denoise, but just make sure to adjust your expectations – and your file storage options – accordingly.

Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise tool: Performance

I was consistently impressed with the performance of Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise feature, especially when compared to the program’s traditional noise-reduction sliders.

It did an admirable job of removing high-ISO artifacts such as unsightly speckles and grain, and its simplicity makes it easy for anyone to use. However, I did encounter some issues that, while not insurmountable, do need to be pointed out.

To illustrate the performance of the AI-powered Denoise, I enlisted my shaggy-haired son (along with some sweets as an incentive to sit still). Both of the following images were shot with the same camera and lens but at vastly different ISO values:

When viewed as small-sized thumbnails the differences are not significant or even noticeable, but everything changes when you start to zoom in close.

The ISO 800 image is relatively clean and you can easily see each individual strand of hair. Color gradations are subtle and fluctuate nicely throughout the image, and hair is still very visible in the dark top-right corner. In contrast, the high-ISO counterpart is a photographic travesty. Whole swaths of hair are nothing more than a muddled mess, while colors are splotchy and the top-right corner looks as though petroleum jelly was smeared across the lens.

Under normal circumstances, I would immediately reject the image on the right. However, Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise was able to salvage the file and transform it into a photo you could practically print and frame. Check out this next comparison, which shows my ISO 800 image (left) next to the ISO 12800 image after I applied some AI Denoising:

After I performed the Denoise operation (leaving the Amount slider at its default value of 50), I had to double-check that I didn’t make a mistake somewhere in the process. The AI-processed file looks even better than the ISO 800 shot: colors are rich and detailed, hair is distinct, and that troublesome top-right corner is entirely usable.

The results are even more impressive when you compare them to what you can get with the traditional noise reduction sliders. While the sliders do an admirable job of reducing noise and grain, they often remove fine details and colors at the same time. This can be mitigated somewhat by refining the slider values, but at the end of the day, AI-powered Denoise gives significantly better results in almost every scenario. Here is that same ISO 12800 image, but processed using Lightroom’s AI Denoise feature (left) and the standard sliders (right):

The image below of a toy lawnmower on a bed of pine needles offers another example of how useful Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise tool really is. I shot it with an old Nikon D200 at ISO 3200, which – as you can see – is well beyond that camera’s usable range. The picture is filled with unsightly high-ISO artifacts and is completely unsuitable for printing or even sharing online.

Lightroom’s noise reduction sliders don’t help much, since they take away the noise but remove almost all of the detail of the pine needles. The result isn’t terrible, but it’s also not that great. Some careful work with masking and targeted noise reduction could help, but those operations take time and can be tedious and painstaking.

Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise does a phenomenal job of removing noise while preserving virtually all of the detail and texture of the pine needles. It accomplishes in seconds (or a few minutes, depending on how fast your computer is) what would normally take much longer, and it gives better results, too.

Let me be clear: For all its power, there are some cases in which Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise does more harm than good. The AI algorithm can end up removing noise so well that the results look fake and take on an artificial, plastic appearance. This can be mitigated somewhat by adjusting the Amount slider to a lower value, but there are certainly times when you just get a better image by sticking with the grainy original.

For the image below, AI-powered Denoise was able to clean up the noise but with some unfortunate side effects. The boy’s skin looks as if it’s made of plastic, and the fence behind him has lost its rich texture. The grass is improved, as is his shirt, but I actually prefer the unmodified original.

It’s also important to understand that, while Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise feature does an outstanding job of removing noise while preserving detail, texture, and color, it can’t create something from nothing. If the original high-ISO image doesn’t have usable data to work with, the artificial intelligence can’t do much to help. Take a look at the picture below, which was taken at ISO 100 and shows fine details across the entire shot:

A 100% crop is displayed below. Notice how even in the shadowy areas on the left, you can still discern plenty of color gradations and fine details:

An identical composition – captured a few seconds later but shot at ISO 12800 – reduces the beautiful scene to a muddy mess. The individual pine needles are obliterated, the red Castilleja flowers are all but gone, and the large bush on the right is mostly just a gray blob:

AI-powered Denoise does an admirable job with some parts of the image, but there’s simply nothing to work with on the right-hand side. The unsightly noise and grain in the 100% crop are gone, but in their place is a dark void with no color or texture at all:

There is one additional caveat worth mentioning that might render this entire feature moot for some photographers. You see, all the pictures used in this article were taken with older cameras that don’t do well at high ISO values.

Therefore, perhaps the biggest drawback of Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise is that it’s simply not as relevant now as it once would have been. Modern DSLR and mirrorless cameras handle ISO 6400 and even 12800 with relative ease, and most people rarely use values that high under normal shooting conditions.

However, even though the need for this feature might not be as great as it once was, it nonetheless offers impressive results and is an outstanding addition to Lightroom’s extensive toolset.

Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise tool: final words

Despite some limitations, I am very impressed with Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise. It does an amazing job of removing noise while preserving details, texture, and color. Its capabilities far surpass those of the traditional noise reduction sliders in Lightroom, and it can resurrect near-unusable images from the Rejected graveyard.

While you will still get better results at lower ISO values, it’s not always possible or practical to shoot that way – and in those cases, Lightroom’s AI-powered Denoise is a lifesaver.

Now over to you:

What do you think of this new tool? Are you impressed? Disappointed? Will you use it regularly? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Lightroom’s AI-Powered Denoise Tool: A Hands-On Review appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Simon Ringsmuth.

Do you want to try levitation food photography but aren’t sure how to pull it off? Then you’ve come to the right place.

The levitation approach to food photography is capable of producing jaw-dropping results that’ll make viewers’ eyes pop, but while you might think it requires fancy gear and incredible camera skills, nothing could be further from the truth.

Because here’s the thing: While some levitation shots can get pretty tricky, you can actually start practicing this awesome photography style with just your trusty camera, a tripod, and a bit of editing know-how.

So to discover a super-easy way to create mind-blowing levitation food photos, keep reading!

What is levitation food photography?

Levitation food photography is all about making your food appear as if it’s defying gravity and floating in the air. Yep, you read that right – your food will literally be flying!

What I mean by “flying” is that the food won’t be sitting on any surface, and the viewer won’t be able to see anything supporting it in the air, either.

This type of shot is very popular in commercial photography, and it’s also a fun way to create captivating still-life shots of food.

When are levitation food photography techniques useful?

First of all, levitation food photos are a guaranteed attention-grabber. We’re used to seeing our food sitting nicely on plates, not floating in mid-air. So when you present levitating food, there’s something wonderfully intriguing about it. It defies our expectations and makes us take a closer look.

Additionally, levitation food photography is perfect for setting the mood or telling a story. Imagine a steaming pot of herbal tea pouring itself into a cup as if it possesses magical powers. It creates an enchanting atmosphere and sparks our imagination.

Another fantastic use of levitation food photography is when you want to highlight individual ingredients. Take, for instance, the immensely popular shot of a burger suspended in midair (also known as the burger levitation photo). It’s a clever way to showcase each ingredient separately, adding visual interest and making your viewers’ mouths water.

In truth, there’s only one situation where levitation photography might not be a great choice: when your aim is to capture an authentic, realistic shot. But if you’re looking to add a touch of magic and intrigue to your food photography, levitation is definitely worth trying out.

How to create levitation food photos: step-by-step instructions

When it comes to levitation food photography, there are several approaches you can take. Let’s explore them one by one.

First, there’s the option of launching or dropping the food and capturing it with a fast shutter speed. This method requires minimal equipment and preparation. However, it limits your ability to create intricate compositions and isn’t suitable for all types of food.

Another technique involves capturing a single shot where all the food is clearly supported by wires, blocks of wood, etc., and then using the Clone Stamp tool in Photoshop to remove all the supports. While this approach is certainly effective, it requires advanced retouching skills.

That’s why I’m excited to share with you a simple yet effective way to achieve stunning levitation food photography using compositing. Let’s dive into the steps together.

Step 1: Build your setup

Before you can actually position the food, you need to arrange the non-food items and fix everything in place. This includes setting up the surface, background, props, and other elements.

Don’t forget to mount your camera on a sturdy tripod. Consistency is key, and a stable base ensures that all your photos will have the same framing. Steer clear of handheld shots to maintain that consistent frame!

Step 2: Light the scene

Now it’s time to illuminate your masterpiece. Whether you choose natural or artificial light is entirely up to you. However, let me offer some guidance.

If you opt for natural light, try to shoot when the lighting conditions are relatively stable. Sudden shifts from sun to clouds (or vice versa) can cause exposure inconsistencies across your photos, which can be a headache to correct.

Whether you use natural or artificial lighting, if you’re a beginner or you’re less familiar with Photoshop, I recommend starting with soft side lighting. It’ll minimize the need to fix shadows in your final levitation shot, making your editing process far easier.

Of course, feel free to experiment with different lighting setups to bring your creative vision to life! For my example shot (displayed below), I used window light.

Step 3: Dial in the right settings

Once you’ve nailed down the perfect framing and composition, it’s time to fine-tune your camera settings. Switch your camera to Manual mode to ensure the settings stay consistent throughout the shoot.

If the objects you’re levitating have the potential to move, opt for a faster shutter speed to capture them in freeze-frame perfection. Of course, if you’re aiming for some deliberate motion blur, feel free to experiment with slower speeds.

To guarantee that the levitating elements are all in focus, I recommend setting your aperture to at least f/5.6. This will provide ample depth of field, allowing those captivating objects to take center stage.

Step 4: Capture the shots

Now it’s time to work your photographic wizardry and create the ultimate series of food images. Begin by capturing a photo of your setup without any of the levitating objects. This will be the base of the composite.

Next, introduce the levitating elements one by one, taking separate shots of each. This approach will help ensure that pesky shadows won’t cause problems. You can hold the food items in the frame however you like, but the less obvious the supports, the better.

You can shoot as many pictures as you want. Try different positions, heights, etc., until you’re satisfied.

Step 5: Cull and edit the photos

Now that you have all the photos you need, let’s dive into the post-production process.

Start by selecting the images you want to use and give them a general touch-up. For instance, I always fix lens distortion and fine-tune the white balance.

You can also make additional adjustments, but I usually prefer to save that for the final file. Regardless of what you do, make sure you apply it across all the images. Personally, I rely on Lightroom for this task since it’s easy to sync all the edits, but feel free to use any software that suits your fancy.

Step 6: Make a photo composite

It’s time to work some compositing magic. I use Photoshop for this, but any program with layer capabilities will do the trick.

Import all the images as layers into a single document. Make sure the base photo you took – the one without levitating elements – is at the bottom of your layer stack.

Then start adding in the flying elements. Simply click on each layer, select the flying element, then click on the Layer Mask button in the Layers panel. This will create a layer mask that hides everything but the flying object. (You’ll also be able to see the base layer with the background image; that’s what makes the compositing process so effective!)

Repeat this process for each layer with levitating food. Then remove any problematic shadows and fine-tune the final image as needed!

Quick tips to improve your levitation food shots

Now that you’ve got the hang of levitating food photography, let’s take it up a notch and achieve even more stunning results. Here are a few quick tips to elevate your game:

1. Be careful with the shadows

When it comes to creating captivating levitation food shots, shadows can be both your friend and your foe. On the one hand, they can add depth and realism to your images; on the other hand, they can spoil the illusion.

To ensure a flawless final image, be diligent in removing any trace of the supports used, including shadows, during the photo compositing process. But bear in mind that, depending on the lighting and positioning of your levitating food, a complete absence of shadows can look unnatural. So it’s sometimes important to recreate shadows (or add them back in using your levitating object layers).

Note: If your shots feel slightly off, the culprit might be the shadows! So before you declare an image complete, take a careful look to ensure everything appears accurate.

2. Try different supports

To suspend different ingredients in the air, you can get creative with your supports. Cocktail sticks, toothpicks, clear thread, wires, or even your hand can be used, though make sure that they don’t obstruct the subject and can be easily removed in Photoshop.

The shape, texture, and size of the food will determine the best choice of support. Feel free to try out different options until you find the perfect match!

3. Add motion to your shots

While “frozen” levitating food photography can be visually striking, injecting a sense of motion can take your shots to a whole new level. Adding a touch of motion blur brings dynamism and energy to your photos, which is often highly desirable!

One way to add motion is to position a food item within the frame, then let it fall just before you press the shutter button. That way, you’ll capture a captivating motion blur effect!

Note that you can also create a motion blur effect in Photoshop.

Levitation food photography: final words

Hopefully, thanks to this article, levitation food photography is no longer a mystery – and you’re armed with the know-how to take your food shots to soaring heights!

So the next time you’re capturing levitating food, get creative, think outside the box, and let your imagination take flight. Remember, practice makes perfect, so keep honing your skills and watch your food shots improve.

Now grab your camera, find a few culinary creations, and let the levitation magic unfold before your lens!

Over to you:

Do you have any levitation food photography tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Create Levitation Food Photography: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Looking to optimize your Photoshop setup? You’re in luck!

Whether you’re a seasoned Photoshop pro or just starting out on your creative journey, getting your settings right is crucial. If you choose the right settings, you’ll be prepared for a fast, effective, and efficient PS workflow, and your editing will be easier than ever before. If you choose the wrong settings, on the other hand, you may find yourself consistently frustrated by Photoshop’s interface, options, and file-handling approach.

That’s why I’ve gathered some essential tips to help you navigate the labyrinth of PS preferences and customizations. By the time you’re done reading, you’ll be able to adjust Photoshop to fit your own unique needs – so buckle up, because we’re about to unlock the true potential of this remarkable software!

1. Set your history states and memory usage

To kick things off, let’s dive into the realm of history states. Click Edit>Preferences>Performance to access this nifty feature. Here, you’ll find the option to adjust the number of history states, which determines how far back you can undo changes made to your precious images. By default, it’s set to a measly 50 – definitely not enough for any serious editing.

I recommend cranking up the history states to the maximum value of 1,000. That way, you’ll have an ample safety net to undo any tweaks or alterations you make along the way. However, if that seems like overkill, even setting it to 250 would be a wise move.

While you’re at it, let’s ensure Photoshop can tap into the full power of your computer’s memory. Adjust the memory usage to a generous value, taking into account the amount of RAM you have installed. This will give Photoshop the boost it needs to perform at its best.

By fine-tuning your history states and maximizing your RAM usage, you’ll be setting the stage for a smooth and efficient Photoshop experience.

2. Customize your cursor size and shape

Don’t underestimate the impact of your cursor shape—it can actually make a difference when you’re painting, making precise selections, and more.

Once again, head over to the Preferences dialog (Edit>Preferences>General). Click on Cursors, and you’ll find a range of options to explore.

Personally, I like using a Normal Brush Tip for my Painting Cursors and going with Precise for my Other Cursors. But you might have a different preference! Take a moment to check out these options and decide how you want your cursors to appear as you work. It’s worth testing out various cursor shapes to see what feels right to you.

3. Adjust how Photoshop opens files

When you open files in Photoshop, they usually appear as tabs stuck to the toolbar. But guess what? You have more options!

Honestly, the default tab behavior really bothers me. I much prefer a little freedom and flexibility for each new file to float around. If you’re anything like me and you want your documents to float freely in the window, here’s how you can make it happen:

First, go to Edit>Preferences>Workspace. Then uncheck two options: Enable Floating Document Window Docking and Open Documents as Tabs.

By disabling these settings, you’ll experience the joy of new files floating gracefully in the window when they open.

4. Choose your background and panel colors

Photoshop’s default color scheme works fine for most folks, but did you know that you can change both the panel and background colors to suit your preferences?

Simply open the Preferences dialog (Edit>Preferences>General), then select Interface.

Under Appearance, you can choose a different Color Theme. This will change the color of the panels and toolbars around the edges of the Photoshop window.

For instance, the default theme looks like this:

But you can always choose to go dark gray instead:

You can also change the background color (that is, the color surrounding your open documents) by adjusting the Standard Screen Mode option. (Alternatively, you can right-click on the background and choose your preferred color.)

Go ahead and test out different options until you find a combination that you like. Of course, you can also change the background color and theme on a case-by-case basis. It’s up to you!

5. Set your file-saving preferences

When it comes to saving files in Photoshop, you have the power to choose where they end up. When you choose File>Save As, you can either have Photoshop save images back to their original folder, or you can have the program remember the last folder you used for saving files. To determine this default behavior, head over to the Preferences dialog (Edit>Preferences>General) and explore the File Handling area.

If you want your files to go back to their original folder, simply activate the Save As to Original Folder option. On the other hand, if you prefer Photoshop to remember and default to the last folder you saved to, uncheck this option instead.

By taking control of your file-saving process, you can streamline your workflow and ensure that your files end up exactly where you want them.

6. Create a history log

When working on a large project in Photoshop, it’s crucial to have a record of your steps. That way, you can easily retrace your path and make adjustments as needed.

To accomplish this, navigate to Edit>Preferences>History & Content Credentials, and check the History Log box. I recommend saving the log as a text file rather than within the project itself.

In the Edit Log Items dropdown, opt for Detailed as it captures the most comprehensive data. Choose a suitable filename and destination to save your log, and voila! Photoshop will diligently keep track of every action you take on each file, maintaining a detailed log for your reference.

7. Choose your preferred Workspace

By default, Photoshop sets you up with the Essentials workspace, which looks like this:

It’s fine for quick Photoshop work, but it doesn’t have all the common photo-editing tools and panels visible and easily accessible. That’s why I recommend exploring your other workspace options, which you can find under Window>Workspace.

Personally, I recommend the Photography workspace, which offers a visible Layers panel, easy application of adjustment layers, and access to handy photo-editing tools. But if you do a lot of graphic design, you may prefer to use the Graphic and Web workspace.

Pro tip: If you try all of Photoshop’s offered workspaces and don’t love any of them, you can actually save a workspace of your own! Simply adjust the layout to fit your preferred Photoshop setup, then choose Window>Workspace>New Workspace.

You can give your custom workspace a name, then easily find it in the Workspace menu the next time you need it. Cool, right?

Photoshop setup tips: final words

As you now know, setting up Photoshop can be a real game-changer for your photo-editing adventures. With just a few tweaks in the Preferences panel, you can customize this powerful program to fit your needs like a glove – and you can enjoy post-processing like never before.

So take some time to explore the Photoshop menu (especially that Preferences dialog!) and make Photoshop truly your own. Embrace the power of customization and unleash your creativity. Remember, every little tweak and adjustment can make a world of difference to your editing workflow!

Now over to you:

Do you have any Photoshop setup tips that I missed? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 7 Photoshop Setup Tips (for an Effective Workflow in 2023) appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Helen Bradley.

Do you love photographing stunning landscapes but get discouraged by the crowds of tourists that seem to photobomb every shot? You’re not alone! Shooting at popular tourist destinations can be a real challenge – and when you’re faced with dozens of people constantly walking in and out of your frame, it’s enough to make you wish you had just stayed home.

But fear not! With a little planning and some insider knowledge, you can capture outstanding landscape images even in the most crowded of locations. As a professional landscape photographer, I know firsthand the frustration of trying to take a picture of a breathtaking waterfall or picturesque mountain range, only to have your shot ruined by a group of tourists (or even other photographers). That’s why I’ve developed a handful of tried-and-true techniques for avoiding crowds and getting the shot you want, no matter the area.

In this article, I guide you through the process of planning and prioritizing so you can choose the right time and location to get the perfect photos without the crowds. I also discuss key techniques that you can use to eliminate people from the frame – so even if you’re stuck shooting in a tourist-filled area, you can come away with some satisfying images.

Let’s dive right in!

1. Wake up early

If you love landscape photography, you probably already know that the golden hours – around sunrise and sunset – are the best time to snap stunning shots. During these times, the sun sits low in the sky, creating soft, dreamy lighting that’s perfect for photography.

But did you know that waking up early to capture the golden hour light also helps you avoid crowds? Since most tourists prefer to sleep in and have breakfast at their hotels, we dedicated photographers can use these times to beat the rush.

So if you want to capture the beauty of popular landscapes without the annoyance of crowds, set your alarm and head out before the masses. You might come across one or two fellow photographers, but you’ll have plenty of space to take your shots and enjoy the moment without jostling for position.

And here’s a little secret: It takes about an hour or two for the first buses filled with tourists to arrive after sunrise, depending on the season. That should give you plenty of time to explore the area and capture those epic shots that’ll be nearly impossible to snap once the crowds arrive.

2. Catch the magic of sunset

If getting up early for sunrise isn’t your cup of tea, don’t worry – you can capture stunning landscape shots at popular locations during sunset instead. Although the crowds do tend to be larger during this time, particularly if you’re shooting near a bustling town, most people present will be fellow photographers.

You see, during the sunset hours, many regular tourists head back to their hotels or go out for dinner, leaving the photographers behind. And as fellow enthusiasts, photographers tend to understand the challenges of capturing the perfect shot at popular locations, which means they’ll be more considerate and mindful of one another. You’ll find that everyone makes an effort to stay out of each other’s way.

And the best part? Since everyone is looking for the best compositions, you may find that they – and you! – tend to cluster in the same areas, leaving other key spots completely empty and ready for you to snap that perfect shot.

Don’t be afraid to stick around after sunset, either. The magical blue hour that follows offers an ethereal light that can add a beautiful touch to your photos. Plus, by then, the crowds will have thinned out even further, giving you even more space to work your magic.

3. Photograph the night sky

If you’re looking for a unique and exciting way to photograph popular landscape locations, then shooting at night is definitely worth a try. Trust me, once you get a taste of it, you’ll be hooked!

Not only will you have the chance to capture awe-inspiring shots of starry skies, but you’ll also get to enjoy the locations with fewer people around. Most folks will be snuggled up in bed while you’re out exploring – and even if you do run into other night photographers, they’ll be few and far between, leaving you plenty of space to get your shot.

Another advantage of night photography is that it allows you to create images that stand out from the typical shots taken during the day. The intense darkness, the way the stars shimmer in the sky, and the eerie stillness of the landscape often create a unique and captivating atmosphere that makes for jaw-dropping photos.

However, night photography does come with some challenges. For one thing, you’ll need to sacrifice some sleep to get those perfect shots. Secondly, you’ll need to plan ahead to ensure your safety. Make sure you tell someone where you’ll be and have a solid plan for navigating in the dark. And lastly, don’t forget to bring something warm to drink – it can get pretty chilly out there at night!

4. Choose the month strategically

If you’ve already planned a trip and have the dates locked in, this tip won’t be much help – but if you’re still trying to decide when to travel, planning your visit during the off-season can make a huge difference.

Of course, it’s not always easy to take time off during non-holiday periods, and some locations are simply best during certain times of the year. For instance, if you want to snap the vibrant tulips at the PSNW (Washington/Oregon) Tulip Festival or the blooming cherry blossoms in Japan, you’ll need to visit during a specific window.

That said, if you’re not photographing a specific event, visiting during the low season is a great idea. Not only will you avoid the worst crowds, but you might also encounter unique weather and light.

I’ve gone to Iceland during the low season a few times, and I can vouch for its wonders. Sure, the harsh weather can be a challenge, but when the light is good, it’s jaw-dropping! Just make sure to do your research before you book your tickets. The last thing you want is to arrive and find it’s pitch dark 24 hours a day.

5. Use a neutral density filter

I’ve talked all about the value of timing your photoshoot for the low season, the morning, the evening, or even the night – but what if you’re not able to go during these times? Or even worse, what if you arrive only to find that the crowds still exist? Should you just give up and head back home? Of course not! There’s always a solution, so don’t worry.

If you find yourself in a busy location and you can’t wait to get your shot, try using a neutral density filter. This handy little gadget won’t cost too much and can be attached to the front of your lens.

I won’t bore you with all the technical details, but basically, the filter blocks some of the light from hitting the camera sensor, which means you’ll need to use a longer shutter speed to get a good exposure. And a longer shutter speed will blur out any moving objects in your frame, so if you’re taking a shot of a busy street or a crowded beach, you can make all the people disappear!

Just set your shutter speed to a couple of minutes, and you’ll be left with a beautiful, pristine image that’s free from any distracting elements.

And if you’re worried about camera shake, don’t be. Just make sure to bring a sturdy tripod along, and you’ll be just fine.

6. Stack multiple images

Stacking multiple images is another powerful technique that can help you remove crowds from your landscape photography shots. The idea is to take several photos of the same scene with people walking in and out. Then you blend the images together to get rid of all the people. It’s a bit more advanced than using an ND filter, but with the help of software like Adobe Photoshop, it’s easy to learn.

Here’s how to do it step by step:

1. Take a series of shots from the same position. It’s best to use a tripod to keep the frame consistent across all the images. Aim for about 20-25 shots with an interval of roughly 20 seconds between each one. This will allow any people in the frame to move around a bit between shots.
2. Import your shots into your computer.
3. Open Photoshop and click File>Scripts>Statistics.
4. Choose Median as your Stack Mode in the dialog box that appears, and check the box for Attempt to Automatically Align Source Images.
5. While Photoshop does its thing, go ahead and take a break! Watch some funny videos on YouTube, grab a coffee, or just relax for a bit.
6. When Photoshop is finished processing the images, zoom in to 100% and look for spots where the script wasn’t able to do a perfect job. If you find any, use the Spot Removal Tool to carefully heal these areas.

This technique is incredibly effective for removing unwanted people from your images. In my experience, the script works well on 99% of shots, and even on the remaining 1%, it still does a pretty good job.

So if you’re tired of crowded photos that don’t do your favorite landscape locations justice, give image stacking a try! It’s a simple yet powerful way to take your shots to the next level.

Photographing at popular landscape locations: final words

Photographing at popular landscape locations may be a daunting task, but it doesn’t have to be. With the right mindset and approach, you can still take stunning landscape images even in the midst of a crowded tourist spot.

Remember: Photography is not only about capturing a moment but also about enjoying the experience. With these tips, you can avoid the crowds and take images that are not only beautiful but also meaningful. Happy shooting!

Now over to you:

Which of these approaches do you plan to use? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post 6 Tips to Avoid Crowds at Popular Landscape Photography Locations appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Christian Hoiberg.

Looking to learn everything there is to know about Photoshop’s Camera Raw filter? Well, have no fear, because the ultimate guide to the CR filter is here!

If you’ve only just started out post-processing your images in Photoshop, you may worry that the CR filter is a little too advanced – but that’s a mistake. In fact, the CR filter can be a game-changer for even the most inexperienced of photographers.

In other words, you don’t have to be a Photoshop expert to use this powerful tool. And that’s where this guide comes in. We’re going to break down everything you need to know about the CR filter in a way that’s easy to understand. Specifically, we discuss:

• What the filter actually is
• How to access the filter
• A handful of ways to use it in your post-processing workflow

So if you’re ready to start using Photoshop’s CR filter like a pro, then let’s dive right in!

What is the Photoshop Camera Raw filter?

At its most basic, this filter allows you to use the functions of the Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) interface within Photoshop. You can essentially make adjustments within ACR at any time during your workflow, rather than limiting its usage to the RAW processing stage only.

It’s worth noting that if you were to import your working file into Lightroom to make the same adjustments, it would be a cumbersome step. But with the Camera Raw filter in Photoshop, you can use these tools without any extra effort.

To find the filter, simply select Filter>Camera Raw Filter, and the dialog box will pop up. However, before you do this, you may want to stamp all the layers by pressing Ctrl/Cmd+Shift+Alt/Opt+E. This will combine all of your layers into a new layer from which you can work.

Camera Raw filter limitations

While the Camera Raw filter is a great tool, there are some limitations you need to be aware of.

For example, you’ll lose some functionality of the white balance adjustment in ACR because you’re not working from a RAW file. You can still make drastic changes to the temperature of your images with this tool, but it won’t be as versatile as when you’re working on a RAW file in ACR. You’ll also lose the Crop and Rotate tools that you normally have access to when working on RAW files.

It’s also important to realize that because you’re not working with a RAW file at this stage, you won’t have the same versatility that you would when editing in ACR. Instead, the process will be more like editing a JPEG file in Lightroom or ACR. This means you’ll have less information to work with.

Bottom line: If you want to make the most of the Camera Raw filter, you need to get things as close to perfect as possible in the RAW stage of post-processing. That way, you’ll have plenty of information to work with – and, consequently, added versatility – when you use the filter in Photoshop.

How can the Camera Raw filter be used?

The CR filter is packed with tools – so much so that there’s no way to make anything resembling a complete list of its effective uses. But here are a few ways I apply the filter:

• To fine-tune adjustments after RAW processing
• To apply certain adjustments that are difficult to do in Photoshop’s main interface
• To make quick adjustments that apply to certain parts of the image
• To add quick and easy vignettes
• To make final tweaks before finishing your image

Now let’s take an in-depth look at each approach:

1. Fine-tune adjustments after RAW processing

If you’re anything like me, you like to make decisions on the spot when you’re processing your RAW files. But have you ever come back to a photo after a day or two and realized that you no longer like the adjustments you made? It happens to the best of us.

The problem, of course, is that you can’t go back to ACR if you’ve already started making adjustments in Photoshop. You don’t want to lose all your hard work, after all!

Well, here’s a quick and easy solution: Stamp the layers to a new layer and run the Camera Raw filter. That way, you can make any ACR-type adjustments you want, and it won’t affect your original work.

This trick works great for quick edits like exposure, contrast, and vibrancy. It also comes in handy if you find that you want to reduce the highlights or whites before diving into more extensive editing. (I use this technique all the time!)

2. Make trickier adjustments

Photoshop might be all-powerful on its own, but ACR (and Lightroom by extension) does make a few things easier. For example, the Clarity slider is tricky to replicate in Photoshop. Using the Photoshop Camera Raw filter to make Clarity adjustments is easier and can save a lot of time.

Another example is the use of the Highlights, Whites, Darks, and Blacks sliders to make quick, intuitive global contrast adjustments. Using these tools is especially useful if you’re not yet fully familiar or comfortable with Photoshop’s Curves and Levels adjustments.

3. Apply local adjustments

When I’m using the Photoshop Camera Raw filter, one of my favorite techniques is to make targeted adjustments to specific areas, like the background. Once I’ve got the adjustments dialed in, I can use a layer mask to ensure they only affect the parts of the image I want.

This approach works great for textured backgrounds because I can tweak the clarity and contrast to my heart’s content without worrying about messing up the subject. With a well-crafted layer mask, I can rest assured that my edits won’t bleed into areas they’re not wanted.

4. Add a vignette

There are tons of ways to create a vignette in Photoshop. In my opinion, however, the Vignette tool – offered in the Camera Raw filter – is by far the easiest, fastest, and most intuitive to use.

Simply head into the Effects panel, find the Post Crop Vignetting option, then adjust the sliders until you produce an effect you like!

By taking this approach, you can create a subtle – or, if you prefer, an extreme – vignette in just a few seconds. Also, if any part of the vignette is interfering with your subject, you can always mask it out later using Photoshop’s sophisticated masking options.

5. Make final tweaks

Another handy way to apply the Photoshop Camera Raw filter? Use it to add final tweaks to your finished images.

Once you’ve edited your image in Photoshop, you can run the filter and see if there are any additional adjustments you’d like to make. Tiny shifts to the file’s exposure, contrast, clarity, and vibrance can all help give an image a little extra polish. Sure, you can apply these adjustments in Photoshop, but the CR filter – with its array of easy-to-use sliders – is faster and more intuitive.

Remember: By this point in your workflow, your image should be mostly finished. Aim to keep any adjustments at this stage small and subtle, especially since you’re not working with a RAW file.

Just the beginning

With a tool like the Photoshop Camera Raw filter at your disposal, you can apply all sorts of adjustments with relative ease.

For the most part, if you can do it in Adobe Camera Raw (or in Lightroom’s Develop module), you can do it with the CR filter inside Photoshop. Feel free to use it however you need to achieve the results that you want.

Final tip: Use Smart Objects

Using Photoshop Camera Raw filter as a Smart Object might just be the missing piece of the puzzle in your workflow. It can be a game-changer for your post-processing style, giving you the flexibility to come back and tweak any adjustments that you’ve made.

Setting up a Smart Object is simple: just right-click on the layer that you want to work with and choose Convert to Smart Object.

From there, run the Camera Raw filter as normal. Make any adjustments you want, and once you’re happy, click OK. In the Layers palette, under the layer you’re working on, you’ll see the name of the filter below the Smart Filters box. If you double-click on it, you’ll be taken back to the Camera Raw filter dialog box where you can adjust any of the settings you’ve previously tweaked.

This technique is incredibly useful if you tend to second-guess your decisions later on. Smart Objects give you the freedom to make changes without having to start all over again.

Of course, Smart Objects may not work for every photographer’s workflow. If you like to use a lot of stamped layers, you may have already created and worked on a new stamped layer by the time you see something you want to modify. In this situation, any adjustments made to a Smart Object would not be visible.

But in general, using Smart Objects can make a huge difference to your workflow. They provide flexibility and save you time in the long run, allowing you to focus on the creative process. Give it a try and see how it works for you!

The Photoshop Camera Raw filter: final words

If you’re looking to up your image editing game, the Camera Raw filter is essential. This powerful tool seamlessly integrates Adobe Camera Raw into Photoshop, allowing you to make adjustments to your images at any point in your workflow without the need to switch between programs.

While it may not be as good as the original Adobe Camera Raw application when it comes to white balance adjustments or cropping, the Camera Raw filter still offers a wide range of functionality that can help you achieve the perfect look for your photos.

So, next time you’re editing an image in Photoshop, why not give the Camera Raw filter a shot? You might be surprised at just how much it can enhance your editing capabilities!

Remember, photography is all about experimentation and trying out new techniques. Don’t be afraid to play around with the Camera Raw filter and see what kind of results you can achieve. Who knows, you might even discover a new editing trick or two along the way!

Go ahead and give it a try. Your photos (and your viewers) will thank you for it. Happy editing!

The post Photoshop Camera Raw Filter: The Ultimate Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by John McIntire.

Color is an often overlooked element of photography, yet it can make a huge difference to your images. With careful use of color, you can attract plenty of attention, and you can add intensity and impact to your compositions.

But figuring out how to use color in your photos can be tricky. Not only do you have to find the right subjects, but you also need to ensure the colors blend well together and work with the overall mood of the piece. That’s where this article comes in. Below, I share five tips to improve your use of color in photography, whether you’re a beginner or an experienced shooter!

Let’s dive right in.

1. Find a colorful scene

If you’re looking to create photos that feature beautiful colors, you’ll need to start by seeking out vibrant scenes. While you can always work with more subtle subjects, the more color you can find in the field, the more eye-catching the result and the easier it’ll be to use the hues effectively.

So keep an eye out for lots of intense colors. The way the countryside unfolds in the summer, for example, can be a wonderful way to showcase color in a landscape. You’ll often be able to capture purple hues of lavender and/or golden wheat fields, both of which can look amazing.

You might focus on one dominant color in a scene, such as green. Alternatively, you can seek out a variety of tones, like a cool blue sky mixed with a red field; this can add some complexity to your shots and evoke different emotions. Blue often provides feelings of cold, whereas red can add warmth, energy, and excitement.

As you become better at finding colorful scenes, I’d encourage you to think of the different hues in terms of the color wheel. Colors that sit opposite one another on the color wheel – red and green, for example – are known as complementary colors, and they can create a sense of depth and visual tension when combined in a single photo.

You can also use analogous colors, which are colors that sit next to one another on the wheel, such as red and orange or purple and blue. Analogous colors tend to create a more harmonious, low-key result.

Bottom line: For the best results, make sure you find vibrant scenes, then spend some time thinking carefully about the dominant colors and how you can combine them.

2. Look for details with color

It’s easy to spend time thinking about the obvious colors present in the wider environment – but if you want a more unique composition, consider focusing on details with color. Even if the overall scene is a little drab, there may be colorful details that are just waiting to be captured!

For instance, if you’re photographing in a city, you can find colorful details in storefronts and signs. And if you’re photographing a landscape, you can zoom in on flowers in bloom.

Think about the different colors and details you might photograph, and experiment with a variety of color palettes to see what works well. (Remember to use that color wheel!) Try and find details to photograph that feature single colors, then work with combinations of colors and see which you prefer.

A dedicated macro lens can be useful here, especially if you want to really hone in on those details, but it’s certainly not a requirement. And if you like the idea of magnifying your subject, try testing out each of your lenses to see just how close they can go (you might be surprised by what you find out!).

3. Change your white balance setting

Did you know that your camera can alter the color of your images? You simply need to change the white balance from a cool setting to a warm setting (or vice versa).

Note that your camera should offer a handful of white balance presets, which are designed to quickly set the WB in the field. These correspond to specific lighting scenarios, such as shade, clouds, tungsten lighting, and fluorescent lighting, and they’re generally used to neutralize color casts – for instance, the Shade preset is designed to counteract the bluer light present in shady areas – but you can use them creatively to achieve different looks in your shots.

For instance, you can select the Shade, Cloudy, and Daylight presets to get warmer and brighter colors in your images, or you can use the Incandescent and Fluorescent presets to cool things down.

And if you require a subtler touch, note that there’s also an option to manually adjust the color temperature, which can be a nice way to achieve precise results.

4. Use a polarizer to boost color and contrast

One of the greatest accessories you can have in your photography kit – especially if you’re serious about really bringing out the colors in your photography – is a polarizing filter. A polarizer is usually placed on the front of your camera lens, and it’s a versatile piece of equipment that can minimize reflections, darken skies, and manage glare from water sources such as lakes or the sea.

So what does this have to do with color? As it turns out, dealing with reflections in water, skies, and foliage helps show off the true colors underneath. That’s why landscape photographers love working with polarizers, especially when dealing with leaves in the fall as well as any subjects containing water. Even if the unpolarized scene looks pretty colorful, pop on that polarizer, and – bam! – the color and contrast will be enhanced.

Do note, however, that your results will vary depending on the quality of your polarizer as well as the angle of the lens relative to the sun. I’d recommend reading up on polarization best practices, though if you’re more of a hands-on learner, why not grab a good polarizer and spend some time experimenting?

At the end of the day, polarizers won’t take up much space in your bag, but they’re a great way to bring out colors and are plenty useful for making your images more distinct!

5. Boost colors in post-production

In general, if you want lots of color in your images, it’s best to photograph vibrant scenes – but if you’re struggling to achieve the look you’re after, you can also use post-processing techniques to boost the intensity of any existing hues.

The simplest way to do this is by increasing the saturation, which is an option offered by pretty much every editing program on the planet. You might also try boosting the vibrance, which is like saturation but targets cooler colors when enhancing the scene.

But if you’d like to customize the effect, you can always use HSL sliders to increase the saturation of individual colors while leaving other colors alone (or even desaturating them). This isn’t an option you’ll find in basic editing programs, but Photoshop and Lightroom both offer it.

A word of advice: While it can be nice to increase colors in your photos, make sure you don’t go overboard. If you saturate the colors too much, your image may start to look rather garish. Always check the before and after views to ensure you haven’t taken the color saturation too far. It can also help to spend some time away from the computer; then, when you come back, you can evaluate the colors more objectively.

Color in photography: final words

Working with color can be a great way to enhance your images. You just have to know how to effectively incorporate colors into your images – and how you can boost color intensity without taking the effect too far.

So spend some time seeking out those colorful scenes and vibrant details. Experiment with white balance adjustments and other post-processing effects that can tweak or enhance colors, and if you want to give your scenes a boost, consider using a polarizer.

Now over to you:

Do you have any additional tips for working with color in photography? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post Color in Photography: 5 Tips for Stunning Results appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jeremy Flint.

The Photoshop twirl effect is a cool editing trick that can turn bland images into abstract art. Even if you haven’t heard of it by name, I’m sure you’ve seen it around – it’s very popular among Photoshop lovers.

But how does it work, and how can you apply it to your own photos? In this article, I explain how to create a twirl effect in Photoshop, and I also offer several tips and tricks to ensure you get the best possible results!

Let’s dive right in.

What is the twirl effect?

The twirl effect is a post-production technique that stretches and “twirls” an image, like this:

In this article, I focus on creating the twirl effect in Photoshop, but note that it’s not a PS-exclusive technique; you can apply it using a variety of comprehensive editing programs.

During the process, your image loses all detail and figurative references. First, you turn your photograph into an abstract scene formed by colored lines, which you then warp to create a twirl effect.

When is a twirl effect useful?

The twirl effect is a great way to achieve dreamy, abstract art, no matter the underlying image. I’d recommend using it whenever you’re looking to create some digital artwork; while the result won’t look natural, it’s often quite spectacular!

One of the good things about this technique is that you can apply it to pretty much any photo. You might have a few images lying around that, on their own, are nothing special. Perhaps they aren’t technically correct – for example, they’re blurry. However, by applying the twirl effect, you can create something beautiful.

How to create a twirl effect in Photoshop: step by step

It’s very easy to create the twirl effect, even if you have zero editing experience! Simply follow these steps and experiment with each filter until you get a solid result.

Step 1: Select and open your photo

Start by opening a photo in Photoshop. It doesn’t matter which image you use – the twirl effect can be applied to any subject or composition. And if you’re struggling to decide between a few different shots, why not try them all?

Step 2: Prepare a second layer

Next, you’ll want to duplicate the background layer (i.e., your photo). Drag it to the plus sign at the bottom of the Layers panel or simply choose Layer>Duplicate Layer in the menu.

Then convert the new layer to a Smart Object. You can right-click the layer and choose Convert to Smart Object, or you can choose Filter>Convert for Smart Filters.

That way, you can go back to each filter later on and make adjustments again without having to start over.

Step 3: Add a Mezzotint filter

To create the twirl effect in Photoshop, you need to apply a series of filters to your image. The first one is Mezzotint.

In the main menu, choose Filters>Pixelate>Mezzotint. This will open a dialog box. Beneath the preview window, you can open the Type menu and pick your preferred type.

At this point, choosing between the different types won’t make much sense unless you’ve done the twirl effect before. So don’t worry too much about it. You can also come back and change it once you’ve applied the next filters because you converted the layer into a Smart Object.

In this case, I’m using the Medium Strokes type, but don’t feel that you have to do the same.

Step 4: Apply the Radial Blur filter

The next filter you need to apply is a Radial Blur, so head into the menu and select Filters>Blur>Radial Blur.

In the dialog box, set the Blur Method to Zoom. As for the Quality: You can choose Draft to speed things up, or you can use Good or Best if the file isn’t too big. At this point, you still have to apply more filters, so it’s not a problem to keep the value as Draft.

I’d suggest setting the amount to 100. You can always come back later and experiment with different numbers to see how they influence the final effect.

Then add the Radial Blur filter again. When you open the Filters menu, you’ll find the last filter you used at the top, so go ahead and select it:

The Radial Blur dialog box will open once more, and it should feature the same settings as before. Simply click OK.

Finally, apply the filter a third time, but make sure you change the Quality to Best:

Step 5: Add the Twirl filter

At this point, your photo should be looking pretty abstract, which means it’s time to start the twirling process! In the main menu, select Filter>Distort>Twirl.

In the dialog box, boost the Angle slider to add the twirl effect. There isn’t a magic Angle value that works for every image. Simply move the slider until you like what you see in the preview window, then click OK.

Go ahead and duplicate your twirled layer using the same process discussed in Step 2.

Step 6: Modify the duplicated layer

Identify your duplicate layer in the Layers panel. Note that the duplicate layer will contain all the Smart Filters you’ve applied so far. So double-click on the Twirl filter to open its dialog box:

Drag the Angle slider to the left until you reach the negative of the number you previously chose. I used an initial value of 197, so I’ll use an Angle value of -197.

(Pro tip: To quickly reverse the value, just click inside the value box and type a hyphen before the number.)

Now the twirl should go in the direction opposite that of the first layer. Click OK to apply it.

Step 7: Adjust the layer blend mode

At this point, you should have two layers, each featuring opposite twirls. However, the top layer will be completely blocking the layer underneath, and we need both layers to interact.

Simply open the Blend mode menu on the Layers panel, then pick a mode! Feel free to experiment with different modes to create different effects (and if you’re using Photoshop CC, you can preview the result as you hover over different blending options).

And that’s it; your twirl effect in Photoshop is done!

Tips and tricks to improve your twirl effect images

Once you can create a nice twirl effect, try a few of these tips to improve your workflow and level up your results:

1. Create an action

Making the twirl effect in Photoshop is very easy. However, it does involve a handful of steps. If you want to streamline your workflow and quickly apply the effect to any photo, you can create an Action.

Start by opening the image you want to modify. Then open the Actions panel. At the bottom, you’ll find a Plus symbol; that’s the New Action button.

Choose a name and start recording. Then follow the steps shared above to create the twirl effect. Once you’ve finished, stop the recording.

The next time you want to apply the twirl effect to an image, simply play the Action and Photoshop will automatically follow all the steps.

2. Apply the mirror effect

The twirl effect is nice, but if you want to get even more creative, you can apply the mirror effect to your image. To do this, you flip the image and put it next to the original.

You can even create a variety of different copies of the image, each rotated and cropped, and blend them together. There’s no limit to your creativity!

3. Use a mask to reveal part of the original image

Another creative application of the twirl effect? Combine the twirled file with part of the original image. You’ll need to use a layer mask to cover and reveal the different parts. Here’s how:

Create a new Group with the two layers that have the twirl effect. You can do this by selecting the layers and clicking on the folder icon at the bottom of the Layers panel.

Make sure the Group is selected, then click on the Layer Mask button. You’ll see a blank thumbnail appear next to the folder. Here, anything that you paint in black will be covered up, revealing anything that lies below (on the original background layer).

So use the Brush tool to paint black over the layer mask and reveal the unmodified shot underneath. And if you mess up while painting, don’t worry; you can always switch to a white Brush and paint over the mistake.

How to create the twirl effect: final words

I hope you liked this twirl effect tutorial! It’s a great way to produce plenty of interesting abstract effects – and you can apply them to pretty much any image, no matter their original quality.

So spend some time adding the twirl effect to your photos. Maybe even create an action. Good luck!

Now over to you:

Do you have any twirl effect photos that you’re proud of? Do you have any tips or tricks for better results? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

The post How to Create a Twirl Effect in Photoshop: A Quick Guide appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Ana Mireles.

Editing portraits is hard. As any experienced portraitist knows, high-level retouching requires an array of unwieldy brushes, masks, and other tools, not to mention long minutes (or even hours) spent in front of a desktop monitor, carefully smoothing and shaping the subject to look just right. And then, once you’ve finally finished editing one portrait from a session, you’ll need to do it all over again to the next photo, and the next, and the next…

It’s enough to give anyone – beginner or professional – a headache. But what if I told you there was a better way? An approach that can cut down your time spent editing while actually improving your results?

I’m talking about PortraitPro 23, the latest version of Anthropics’ highly respected PortraitPro series. Thanks to the program’s AI technology and clever development team, you can use PortraitPro 23 to achieve professional-quality results while spending only a few seconds on each file. You don’t have to be a retouching expert to work the software, either; PortraitPro’s comprehensive, slider-based toolset is remarkably accessible, and after hitting that “Buy” button, even folks with limited editing experience will have their first batch of photos processed and exported within minutes.

While the software might sound too good to be true, I promise: It’s real. Over the last few weeks, I’ve been putting PortraitPro 23 to the test, and I truly believe that it’s the fastest, most efficient, and most effective portrait editing program on the market in 2023. In this review, I cover everything you need to know before buying, including key features and use cases, pricing, and whether the program is worth purchasing if you already own PortraitPro 22. (Spoiler alert: It is.)

So if you’re ready to find out how Anthropics PortraitPro 23 can enhance your editing workflow, then let’s get started!

What’s new in PortraitPro 23?

PortraitPro 23 debuted late last fall, and while I was a huge fan of the previous version (you can read my review of PortraitPro 22 here), PortraitPro 23 raises the bar yet again. 

Not only is PortraitPro 23 faster than its predecessor, but it also boasts several very tangible upgrades, including:

• The Stray Hair Remover tool, which lets you brush away distracting hairs in seconds.
• The Backlight Lighting Brush, which allows you to increase portrait drama and three-dimensionality by painting in a realistic backlight effect.
• An Art Effects tool so you can quickly achieve a breathtaking range of artistic looks (including Pencil Sketch, Rainbow Paint, Scratches, and Cyanotype).
• Support for Apple M1 and M2 chips so Mac users can take full advantage of the software.

If you already own (and love) PortraitPro 22, these new features are likely worth the upgrade, especially if you’re serious about producing high-level edits. The Stray Hair Remover tool and Backlight Lighting Brush are powerful features for refining your images, and the Art Effects tool is a must-have option for creative editors. Finally, Mac users will undoubtedly want to grab the latest version of PortraitPro; here, Anthropics promises a performance upgrade for M1- and M2-chip devices of up to 60%.

And if you don’t yet own any version of PortraitPro, you’re in for a treat – no matter your level of experience. As I implied above, this is a program that cuts across boundaries. It’s streamlined enough for beginners, yet it offers the speed and power required by professionals. In other words, it’s an editor that’ll appeal to portrait photographers of all stripes, as I explore over the course of this review.

Layout and ease of use

PortraitPro 23 is one of the most intuitive editing programs I’ve ever used. Even if you’ve never worked with an editing program before, you’ll be able to find your way around without issue – and if you do happen to struggle, Anthropics provides a series of interactive tutorials to help you access everything you might need. 

Once you’ve downloaded your copy of the program – which you can find on the Anthropics website, either in full or (free) trial form – simply follow the installation instructions, then launch the program. You’ll see the standard home screen, which contains a full library of interactive tutorials:

I’d recommend completing the First Steps tutorial, which will show you around the program interface, though if you’re eager to dive in, you can always select the Open Single Image button in the upper right-hand corner:

(Depending on the edition you buy, you may also see a second button, Open Image Batch, which launches the batch editing dialog; I discuss this in depth below.)

Pick an image to edit, hit the Open button, then wait a few seconds while the program processes your file. The bulk of the screen will be occupied by a Before and an After version of your image, though you can set the program to show only the After version by pressing the View After Only button:

Along the top of the screen, you’ll see the main menu, as well as a minimalistic toolbar featuring four handy tools: the Touch-up tool, the Restore tool, the Stray Hair Remover tool, and the Stray Hair Restore tool. 

On the right-hand side, you’ll find the Zoom controls, which let you customize how your image appears in the main editing pane.

And slightly lower down, you should see four panels: Controls, Presets, Snapshots, and History. The most important of these is the Controls panel, which is where you’ll do the bulk of your editing work. It’s in this panel that you can access PortraitPro 23’s amazing array of tools, including the Shape tools, the Skin Smoothing tools, the Makeup tools, and so much more. 

Nearly all of the program’s editing options come in slider form, which makes it extremely easy to adjust – and re-adjust – your images. If you want to smooth the skin around a subject’s eyes, you push the Around Eyes slider in one direction, and if you want to decrease the smoothing effect, you push it in the other. And if you’re not sure whether an edit is right for an image, don’t worry; you can always save your edits, then come back to the file later on and make additional tweaks and refinements.

Note that most of these tools actually offer submenus for further customization. While you can often generate great results by sticking with the more essential “main” sliders, if you want to make additional tweaks, you can always access these fine-grained tools by clicking on the arrow icons:

If you’re looking to speed up your editing further, you’re going to love the Presets menu. It boasts literally hundreds of presets (basically filters or recipes), all designed to improve your shots in different ways – and each requiring only a single click. You can also create presets of your own, so if you tend to apply a consistent set of edits to each image, this can be a huge timesaver.

Then there are the Snapshots and History panels, which let you save and view your images in various editing states. While you may not spend too much time in these panels, they’re great for more experimental editing. You can save a series of edits as a Snapshot, then make a host of additional adjustments. If you don’t like the results, just select the relevant Snapshot, and – voila! – your image will return to its original edited form.

At the end of the day, PortraitPro 23 offers a simple, highly accessible layout that’ll suit just about anyone, and the tools are wonderfully intuitive. If you’ve tried other editing software in the past but have always quit in frustration, then I’d encourage you to give PortraitPro 23 a shot – and if you’re a more serious photographer with years of retouching experience under your belt, then working with PortraitPro 23 will feel like a breath of fresh air.

Editing capabilities

As I emphasized above, I believe PortraitPro is the best portrait editor available in 2023, and this is in part due to its impressive integration of AI technology and editing tools. 

PortraitPro is unique among software in that it adds custom edits to your files from the get-go; during image initialization, the program’s AI technology analyzes your selected photo, identifies key facial features, then applies an array of specific processes designed to improve the shot. 

You might expect these edits to be superficial, but in my experience, the initial tweaks are genuinely outstanding: powerful without being overdone, subtle without under-editing the shot. It adds a bit of everything – face reshaping, skin smoothing, teeth whitening, lip saturation, and more – plus, because the program identifies the subject’s features in advance and applies edits accordingly, all changes are hyper-realistic. (Note: These initial adjustments are modified depending on the person’s gender and age, which is automatically detected by the program but can also be selected manually.)

For some photographers, PortraitPro’s initial edits will be enough to produce a shareable, displayable image – and if you need greater control and customizability, the program offers plenty of options. Delve into the Controls panel, and you’ll find dozens of tools, all designed to create refined, natural-looking adjustments. 

First, there are the Shape tools, which allow you to modify your subject’s various facial features on a supremely detailed level. With the Face Shape slider, you can adjust the proportions of your subject’s forehead and jaw; with the Eyes, Eye Widening, and Eye Expanding sliders, you can tweak the width and height of your subject’s eyes; and with the Mouth Shape and Nose sliders, you can adjust the shape of your subject’s mouth and nose, respectively. It’s every retoucher’s dream, and while you do have to be careful about going overboard with face sculpting, the tools are certainly powerful.

Next, you’ll find the Skin Smoothing tools, which are perfect for – as you’d expect – smoothing your subject’s skin. What’s less expected, however, is the amount of control you get. PortraitPro 23 doesn’t just offer a slider or two; instead, the program features no fewer than 13 different sliders for skin smoothing, including options to remove pores, remove grease, remove shine, deal with thin wrinkles, remove fine shadows, and so much more. (And that’s only looking at the main sliders; you can access even more sliders by selecting various drop-down menus.) 

Will you need 13+ sliders for skin smoothing? Maybe, maybe not. But you can always skip over the ones you find less helpful, and the huge number of options demonstrates Anthropics’ commitment to retouching comprehensiveness.

While I won’t go into all the remaining editing tools – that could take a whole book! – I’d like to touch on some highlights, such as:

• The Lighting & Coloring tools, which let you genuinely relight your subject by dragging your cursor around an interactive model. You also get plenty of sliders for customizing the way the light falls on your subject (which is essentially dodging and burning but made far easier with the help of sliders and artificial intelligence), as well as several brushes for literally brushing on light. (It’s in this Lighting Brush section that you’ll find the new – and impressive – Backlight Lighting Brush feature.)
• The Makeup tools, which allow you to apply makeup to your subject’s face, including lipstick, mascara, bronzer, and eyeliner. (No, I’m not kidding, and yes, it really does work!)
• The Hair tools, which let you adjust the color and tones of your subject’s hair. Also worth mentioning here is the new Stray Hair Remover tool. It’s not found in the Hair tools tab – you can access it in the main toolbar at the top of the screen – but it’s a great way to clean up the area around your subject’s head, especially if you were shooting in windy conditions or they were simply having a bad hair day.
• The Eye tools, which are perfect for whitening eyes, enhancing irises, and even adding realistic catchlights by choosing from an array of catchlight shapes and sizes.
• All the options in the Tools panel, including the Crop Tool for adjusting your compositions, the Clone Tool for removing problematic areas of your photos, and the new Art Effects tool for adding all sorts of creative effects to your shots. I’m a serious fan of the latter option – adding watercolor, illustration, and oil painting effects is a ton of fun, and the products look great, too.

Regardless of the tools you use, the results are consistently excellent – and if you do notice issues with the way the edits are applied to your files, you can always manually adjust the Skin and Hair Masks in the relevant tool panels or the facial feature map in the Before view.

(By the way, while PortraitPro 23 is a portrait-focused program, it doesn’t neglect standard editing features; you can adjust image exposure, contrast, saturation, sharpening, and more in the Picture tools tab.)

Finally, I’d be remiss if I didn’t discuss two features that will dramatically speed up your editing: Presets and the Image Batch dialog.

As I discussed in the previous section, PortraitPro offers dozens of built-in presets, which you can use to transform your photos with a single click:

These are great if you’re aiming to achieve a specific look, they’re great if you’re a beginner and you’re not yet totally comfortable adjusting the sliders, and they’re also a lot of fun if you just have a few minutes to experiment. You can apply Global presets that rely on the entire suite of PortraitPro features, or you can select tool-specific presets that correspond to the tools in the Controls panel:

As for the Image Batch dialog, it’s an option you can access only if you’ve purchased the most expensive edition of the software – PortraitPro Studio Max 23 – but for the professional wedding or portrait shooter who needs to power through dozens or hundreds of photos at once, it’s an absolute game changer. 

You see, the Image Batch dialog allows you to select a group of images (e.g., a set of 25 select portraits from an engagement session), hit the OK button, then watch as each and every image receives PortraitPro’s standard AI editing treatment. You can apply presets to the photos (with an option to use certain presets depending on the subject’s gender and age, if you like), and you can also click from image to image and make additional adjustments using the standard editing tools.

If you’re a professional portrait or an event shooter, this feature alone will save you dozens of hours in front of the computer each month. And if you’re a more casual photographer, it’s still worth a try, especially if you have a consistent workflow you use for each shot.

Speed and Performance

PortraitPro 23 is easy to use and incredibly effective – but can it perform well, despite its power? 

Astonishingly, yes. 

I used the program on an older desktop PC, yet editing operations were lightning-fast. I noticed almost zero lag, and I was able to observe editing effects instantly, even when I was painting with brushes.

The only time you’ll need to wait is when first loading up an image (or a batch of images); it does take the AI technology a few seconds to analyze the file(s), map out facial features, and apply initial edits – but once that’s done, everything is seamless. 

Of course, performance will depend on your device, so it’s certainly worth checking out the system requirements before purchasing:

• A 2 GHz processor
• A 1280×800 display
• 8 GB RAM (with 16 GB or more RAM recommended)
• Windows 10 or Windows 11; macOS 10.13 or later

But as long as you have a decent PC that meets the requirements above, I wouldn’t anticipate any issues.

Price

Anthropics offers three editions of PortraitPro 23, and you can buy each of them for a one-off price. 

The most basic edition is PortraitPro 23, which normally costs $119.90 but is currently available for $59.95. This option comes with all the features discussed above, with the exception of the Image Batch dialog. However, it lacks the ability to process RAW files.

Next is PortraitPro Studio 23, which normally costs $179.90 but is currently available for $89.95. This option includes everything offered in the standard PortraitPro 23 package, but it can process RAW files, plus it can be integrated with Photoshop as a Smart Filter; that way, you can combine the ease of PortraitPro with the power of Photoshop for stellar results. 

Finally, you can normally grab the most comprehensive edition, PortraitPro Studio Max 23, for $359 – but the current sale puts it at $179.95. This edition includes everything in the more basic options but also offers the Image Batch dialog so you can process dozens (or hundreds) of photos at once.

The PortraitPro and PortraitPro Studio options are well-priced under normal conditions; given the current 50%-off sale, they’re absolute bargains. Note that, unless you only work with JPEGs – or you already use a RAW processor – you’ll really need to spring for PortraitPro Studio over the basic PortraitPro package. 

As for PortraitPro Studio Max 23: Yes, the price is on the expensive side compared to other programs, but the discounted price is quite reasonable, especially given the power of the batch-editing feature. 

Note that you can currently get another 15% off your purchase by entering the code AN75 at checkout – and if you’re upgrading from a previous version of PortraitPro, you get an additional 25% off. 

Who should buy Anthropics PortraitPro 23?

PortraitPro 23 is one of those rare programs that every portrait shooter should try. It’s easy to use, it offers great performance, and the editing features are spectacular. It’s also currently on sale, and by entering the special AN75 discount code, you can grab any edition of the software for an unbeatable price. 

That said, I’d argue that the program is best suited to a few specific groups:

• Beginners and enthusiasts who are looking to delve into portrait retouching but are intimidated by the difficulty of competitor programs
• Casual portrait shooters who want to make their files look great without spending hours in front of the computer
• Serious wedding and portrait shooters who want to speed up their retouching workflow while also enhancing their results

If you’re in one of the first two groups, I’d recommend grabbing PortraitPro Studio 23 (though folks keen on batch editing should consider PortraitPro Studio Max 23 instead). If you’re a professional, however, the Image Batch feature is likely essential, so make sure you purchase the Studio Max 23 edition.

One final note: I think the program is great, but you don’t have to take my word for it. Anthropics offers a free trial of the program that you can use to test out the various features, and you can download it here.

So grab your copy of PortraitPro 23 and take it for a spin. Watch as it improves your images and cuts down on your time spent editing!

All new editions and upgrades are currently on SALE at 50% OFF or better – and remember to use the code AN75 at the checkout for an ADDITIONAL 15% OFF.

Anthropics is a paid partner of dPS.

The post Anthropics PortraitPro 23 Review: The Best (and Fastest) Portrait Editor Money Can Buy appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Jaymes Dempsey.